Cassoulet – the traditional french way (but not in the way you think)

OK that’s a misleading title.

It’s traditional in that I was trying to use up things I had in the fridge, and as ridiculous as that sounds, confit ducks legs was one of those things. I made a batch a while back and even gave some out as gifts (something I’m horrified by now) and when my wife, and I went to eat a bag (i made them using Thomas Keller’s SV recipe) they were inedibly salty, which is odd because I’ve made that recipe a number of times before and it was flawless.

So, I’ve got two bags (with two duck leg quarters each) of inedibly salty confit, which I didn’t want to go to waste (duck fat doesn’t grow on trees you know), so I figured I’d use them up in a cassoulet just like in the southwest of France would use up the duck they had (confit so it wouldn’t spoil then canned cassoulet).

Of course, I couldn’t just leave it at that, and I had to go get the toulouse sausage from Surfas, and beans from the store and chicken thighs (see why on this excellent article from Serious Eats Food lab http://www.seriouseats.com/2014/10/how-to-make-cassoulet-chicken-food-lab-french-casserole.html).

I warmed up the legs and broke the meat apart and added hot water to reconstitute and pull some of the salt from the meat (which I then used to brine the beans). Then used the bones and some browned roast chicken bits to make a pressure cooked stock, which I used for the cassoulet. After frying up some lardons from the danish bacon we have in the freezer (we buy by the slab), I added it all together.

I never really got that crust, whether the reason being that I didn’t have enough gelatin (though the cassoulet did gelatinized when it was in the fridge), or because the oven went on the fritz when the power went out in our neighborhood. Alas, crusty it was not, but tasty it still was (and a bit salty if I’m honest…stupid confit duck quarters)…

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Cor

canelé part deux!

[Note: this is from a draft started in November 2014 and I am trying to finish it now the best I can]

Well the canelé madness has continued. I read the entirety of this crazy chowhound thread (multi-thread, multi page http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/738446), and then Paula Wolfert’s recipe (egullet member) from her book (http://www.paula-wolfert.com/recipes/canele.html), Pim from (http://chezpim.com/bake/canele-recipe-method). I also did multi-variations and combined techniques for each of these. The paula wolfert version was a bit eggy for my taste though I did like the refined bakers sugar since it requires less stirring to incorporate, and the Pim version uses powdered sugar, which contains cornstarch and I didn’t like the way it affected the texture of the “custard” – made it set more flanish.

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I’ve roped in my friends from culinary school, Joanna of http://www.chefjoannas.com/, who was in France with me, to go on a tasting to Bouchon Bakery (this is actually where she first told me about her energy bars that I am dying to try). Of course they were near perfect (called ahead and got them about an hour after baking so they crust was set but not starting to soften…sugar is hygroscopic you know). The crust was perfect, bitter, crunchy– perhaps using wax (look in the divot on the dome). The interior was the texture that I’ve been hearing described but not really sure what it meant having never had a good one. It was almost like just underdone cake batter. Moist but not springy, which is what I think the flannish texture comes from (too much overworking of the gluten in mixing or egg protein). Could have been a bit more boozy, which is strange because I’m not a rum fan, but these somehow need them.

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Finally, after a lot more variants: recipes, temperature, and cook time, I decided to try the version my friend, Amanda, gave me when she let me borrow her molds in the first place. Amanda used to be the head pastry chef of a very well known bakery in NYC that has closed (I’m not sure if I’m allowed to say which). Of course they were damn near perfect and I can’t believe that I’ve been sitting on it this whole time.  ugh.

Expect a post specifically about them in the future, but in the meantime here is the canele from la boulange, which has a pretty decent one if you ask for it not to be re-heated and order it before 10am before the crusts can start to get chewy…

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Cor

Smoke and mirrors…

I just read this article:

http://www.bostonglobe.com/metro/2015/05/05/harvard-class-cooks-ultimate-bbq-smoker/0O4fLQ0rbt9qMGsllPoTjK/story.html?p1=Article_Trending_Most_Viewed

and found it to be really interesting idea. I’m curious because all of the historical bbq joints (I’m reading aaron franklin’s book right now *) seem to use side fireboxes where you do full combustion of wood which is supposed to achieve a much cleaner smoke and then the amount of “heat” allowed in the cook chamber is controlled in various ways vs. these upright drum smoker variants where the heat and smoke are the same area as the meat and you have to control the heat in the smoking chamber by controlling combustion which results in smoking via smoldering (supposedly a dirtier tasting smoke flavor).

I wonder if the nerds (my highest commendation) who took this, the greatest class in history, were thinking in terms of flavor or mostly temperature control from a scientific standpoint (like i have been since basically about two weeks ago).

The 2014 Croissants Trials pt. 1

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background:

croissants are probably my favorite pastry, and I have made them on a number of occasions (mostly birthdays and christmas morning). I’ve gotten to the point where I like the process and find it relaxing, but have never been quite satisfied. The “perfect” croissant should have a nice shattering shell and airy honeycomb insides that taste of a rich savory butter without being greasy.

most of the major lessons I’ve learned are not in the making of the dough, which comes with practice, but in the small techniques of forming, proofing, and baking. It sucks but most of my successes, near misses, and utter failures have come from this point.

The first major discovery was in the proofing. Often times my croissants would have the dreaded butter leakage during baking. I often thought it was temperature– too hot causing the better to melt i though, so I tried various ways to treat temperature. letting proof then popping in the fridge for 5 minutes to let butter harden, and various ways of altering the oven temp (high at first then lowered, or starting lower and then raised). After copious amount of reading, I discovered that the butter leakage actually comes from under-proofing. If the croissants are under-proofed then they will not be able to (maybe) retain, hold in, or whatever the butter and instead it will “squeeze” out. I cannot tell you how much of a difference that made, and I’m still playing that game now as proofing is something I’ve found difficult in basically every yeasted bread form. One day i’ll make a temperature and humidly controlled proof box that holds two half sheet racks, but until then I’m basically running on sticking a large tupperware container over a quarter sheet tray for about 3.5hrs until they are jiggly (technical term).

The second finishing technique problem I have (still have unfortunately) is getting the texture of the croissant right. Sometimes they result in a bit too dense and underdone in the center (which may come from being too rough or too slow when doing the turns–seriously if you know the answer and can point me in the direction of the answer please do). I used to make croissants and roll them up and freeze them, and then bake as needed. Now i think I will freeze the flat dough (at the point just before forming) as I think the thawing and proofing is affecting the center. When I proofed and baked without freezing in this most recent test they were not as doughy as usual and had a much more honeycomb texture. I could not, however, finish them completely no matter how long I left them in the oven (went 15 minutes longer and it made no apparent difference). Here we are talking about a quality issues of about 10%, but still. It’s frustrating after all these times not getting them right.

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As to that savory buttery flavor, most of that comes from the european style butter which has a higher fat contend (though i did use one with a super high fat content but not as good flavor and they were lacking). Another flavoring factor is cold fermenting of the dough. This can be done by letting the pre-butter block dough (detrempe) rest in the fridge for a couple days. In bouchon bakery, they add a step of a poolish or a yeast starter. I generally make these croissants over about 2 days, so the combination of poolish and naturally occuring cold-ferment has really upped the flavor to where I like it to be.

For this trial, i made the bouchon bakery recipe, but left 25g flour out of the detrempe because I’m kind of a heavy hand with flour when rolling and folding the turns. I also tried something which is trimming the dough when folding to decrease having “dead dough” with in the folds and just have the nice clean layers. This worked well, though I’m not sure how much of it was the trimming vs. not freezing in the final result. I did lose about 10% probably though.

 

For an upcoming test, i might try dominique ansel’s recipe which uses bread flour as opposed to AP flour which is notoriously varied.

I’m about 87% satisfied with trial 1 (which for me, for a recipe at this stage is pretty damn good actually).

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C

ps with the leftover dough scrape (from folded dough as opposed to cleaned up dead-dough ends) i rolled with sugar and made into kouign-amann. this is sort of like the canele though since I’ve never had one and not sure how they turned out. how they turned out is slightly caramelized, sugary (albeit ugly) croissants, which weren’t bad at all.

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Star Wars – Rebels

So I hesitated for a while to start watching this show. I actually liked the Clone Wars a lot as much as I am not really that into prequel era events (and to some degree it’s what salvaged that pre-episode IV universe for me).

But the fact that this show is that same guy (Dave Filoni)
and the guy (Greg Weisman) that did gargoyles (which I admit I did not watch) but more importantly the spectacular spider-man (the best spider-man cartoon to come out in our lifetimes), I figured I’d give it a shot.
While it’s certainly not as dark as the Clone Wars and seems to be aimed at children, there is a certain degree of familiarity with the universe getting closer and closer to A New Hope that is effectively nostalgic. And, I have to say that I’m really enjoying the story and characters (4 episodes in) being a group of normal people almost like the original trilogy (or even like firefly in Star Wars universe). There’s some great moments (most pertaining to the jedi) that take me back to that binary sunset feeling, which is always a good thing.
I’m going to stick with it, and recommend you continue to check it out if you are at all interested.
–Cor

Iron Man (1) – Mk II Faceplate and Arc Reactor

So last year, I decided to go as Tony Stark from a very specific scene from Iron Man, and build my costume from scratch. It’s not quite done (a year later), mostly because I can’t figure out how to do some stuff, and a bit of last minute stuff I did just to “make it work” on the day.

Not sure if I’ll ever finish but here is the project link.

http://www.therpf.com/f24/iron-man-mk-ii-wearable-arc-reactor-faceplate-197183/

Canelé

I made a couple of batches of canelé this weekend, but what I really think I made was a couple of batches of bad or off canelé.

I don’t think I ever tried one when I lived in Paris, more concerned with finding the “best” croissant, but the chefsteps activity made them look really appealing.

I my cook time seems to be way off in a way I couldn’t easily diagnose, but with some fiddling I got w decent result (based off descriptions of canelé from people who know and love them). To be fair, the crisp shell and custardy interior were quite nice, but my outsides were a just a little chewy (though still crisp) and had a strange pastry-marshmallow like flavor. I think maybe less vanilla and more alcohol in the batter?

I’m not really sure I liked them. I think I just prefer madeleine, which are crisp and airy rather than crisp and well, marshmallowy, and take about the same amount of time. To be fair, whenever I try to make something that I’ve never before had, it’s never that successful.

If I’m honest, I am really disappointed that I didn’t like them. These small honest style pastries are my favorites (madeleline and to a more complex degree croissant). Something made with just a couple of ingredients that goes perfectly with a cup of coffee. If I’m being really honest, I loved the molds. Copper, tin-lined molds that have to be seasoned and last forever that are used to make a small traditional french pastry? I thought canelé would be an instant favorite and strong addition to my repertoire. That’s why it’s a bit heartbreaking that I didn’t love them, and I do realize that’s a terrible reason to want something to work.

On my last batch, I doubled the salt and the alcohol (cognac in this case over rum since in my first trial of cognac and rum the cognac wasn’t so different to I think alter the product significantly– just preferable). The first two batches had that slight dead dough taste that some with little or no salt and that helped. I’m just not sure what to do about the marshmallowness (and here I mean a really soft pillowy mouthfeel that tasty, very mild, slight sweet, and with hints of vanilla).

I do think the recipe is a good one, just that my own person taste leans in a sightly different direction. I’m just not really sure what I was expecting. I’ll try a couple more versions probably one with AP flour. Despite chefssteps’ looking down at AP flour as a catch all of jumbled protein types, I’d like to think King Arthur is a bit more reliable. On the other hand, something that is more cakey/madeleine like seems completely out of what canelé are supposed to be.

Cor

First Batch

First Batch Insides

 

My Thoughts on the Upcoming Captain America Movie

[Note: So I wrote this long article on the Captain America movie after having seen The Wolfman (the director of which was doing Captain America). Many of these issues are pretty old news now (but still valid). While abashedly nerdy and “detailed” to say the least, it was more an exercise in writing that I needed and hadn’t done in over a year or so.]

My thoughts on the upcoming Captain America: The First Avenger movie:
What it could be, should be, but probably won’t be.

[This is not meant to be a history lesson. It is simply my thoughts and opinions on a movie that hasn’t been released yet. Also there are some potential spoilers from and for various sources, so be warned.]

I just saw Joe Johnson’s Wolfman re-make, and although the movie itself never really appealed to me, I wanted to see it mainly to evaluate Joe Johnson’s directorial ability and how it might affect the upcoming Captain America: The First Avenger.

I don’t know why I feel so powerfully about this movie. I don’t have a childhood attachment to Captain America like I do to Spider-man, but I really think that beyond the potential to be a great comic-book movie, Captain America could be a really important movie for the present American audience. I liken its potential to Richard Donner’s Superman: The Movie (1978). Superman was an important movie for its time, premiering in the period coming off Post-Watergate, Vietnam, and oil crisis period of distrust and fear of the late 1970’s. It transcended its own “comic book movie” stigma while also simultaneously starting the modern iteration of the genre. Superman: The Movie was fortuitously released at an important turn in American mood and, like the titular hero, was there when people were ready to begin to believe in something again. It was because of Donner and his ability to craft such a pure cinematic experience of movie magic that made Superman so important.

In my opinion, Christopher Nolan’s The Dark Knight (2008) (and while I am giving opinions, I’ll just go ahead and say that it’s not the greatest comic book movie of all time) was so successful in part because it came out at exactly the right moment and tapped into the collective (un)conscious of the United States audience— and to some extend the global audience as well. The movie was released the summer prior to a huge presidential election in a year when oil prices per barrel reached an all-time high; the country was in an economic recession and stock market decline; and a general increase of fear and angst from terrorism and wars on terrorism all over the world that seemed to mirror the period of the 1970’s that directly preceded Superman. This is the period that birthed the neo-noir genre, which included films such as Polanski’s Chinatown (1974), Coppola’s The Conversation (1974), Scorsese’s Taxi Driver (1976), hell, even Woody Allen’s Annie Hall (1977). On screen, The Dark Knight’s near perfect rendering of a state in fear, paranoia, and chaos truly mirrored the general anxiety of the time similar to the aforementioned films. Now, like the period immediately preceding Superman: The Movie, I believe that there has been a shift in perspective or at least a desire for one, and “you’ll believe a man can fly” is exactly what moviegoers are ready for and need.

Captain America could be this film, but unfortunately, after seeing Wolfman to check up on Johnson (a director I haven’t seen a movie of since Jurassic Park III), I don’t think it will. Viewing Wolflman gave me the same feeling I saw after Star Wars Episode II: Attack of the Clones (I was a bit young to have this feeling after Episode I): a despairing heartbreak at a missed singular opportunity.

I think Johnson is a competent director, but that is it, and it’s not enough. From everything I’ve seen from Johnson’s movies, and with everything that I’ve read about his comments on the upcoming project, he just seems to lack what Donner had for Superman, Rami had for Spider-Man 1 and 2*, Singer had for the X-Men (that Brett Ratner certainly did not), Nolan has for Batman, and Favreau has for Iron Man: a thorough understanding and respect of both the character’s place and history in comic books and the cinematic vision and competency to best to translate that distilled essence to the screen.

For example, Johnson just released a statement that they are planning to make Steve Rogers part of a USO show as a means to explain why someone would actually wear the costumed in real life. This idea is flawed on so many levels. On the costume, the most glaring is Johnson thinking that the modern audience needs a reason for the costume to be fully explained at all. This pandering to the lowest common denominator of entertainment seems similar to Warner Bro’s originally wanting to “darken” the Superman franchise in order to recreate the success of Batman Begins (2005) and The Dark Knight by replicating the process any way they can. “Nomex survival suit for advanced infantry.” Infantry are in the Army. Captain America is in the army, so we better explain the suit. Perhaps Favreau could reshoot the scenes of John Slattery as Howard Stark in Iron Man 2 (2010) with Morgan Freeman in the role to design Cap’s suit and shield (here’s to hoping he likes to nap in the middle of important metallurgy experiments).

Not every superhero needs the origins and design of his or her costume to be addressed. Sam Rami didn’t need to explain where Peter Parker got his costume and neither of course neither did Stan Lee originally. The need to detail the process of costume origins stems from a modern trend that they be realistic and functioning. The costume of Captain America was not created in the modern era. It is a by-product of the 1940s and, by definition, not current and hence the appeal of Steve Rogers as a man out of time when his is found and un-thawed. There is no need to place the movie set in the 1940s in the modern mentality of skeptically scoffing at a costume unless it is functional. If the filmmakers are so dedicated to making the film a near-fully period piece, if they can successfully sell the time-period, modern audiences will fall in line with 1940s thinking, trust that the filmmakers know what they are doing and trust them without having every detail explained. Christopher Nolan never explains that the substance Bruce sprays on the Nomex survival suit is an insulated coating to hide his body’s heat signature. The audience just trusted that there was a reason he was making the suit black that also fell inline with the traditional look of Batman’s suit. If the trust in the filmmakers can be established, simple and natural ways to translate Cap’s traditional costume of spandex looking material into a more realistic uniform in the 1940s (Mark Millar’s Ultimates comes to mind) are readily available that there is no need to go to great lengths to waste screen time explaining it.

Admittedly, I think Johnson seems to be more concerned with the brazen nature of the flag motif than the functionally, but the design of Captain America’s costume is a real part of American history. The Captain America comic by Timley Comics was created as a way to provide a counterpoint to Nazi Germany’s actions by distilling the best of the United States into a single symbol and to eventually boost moral when the nation entered the war. Captain America, Bucky, and their allies’ popularity basically made them the Beatles of American symbolism (a good though, admittedly, flawed analogy for obviously reasons). His costume design actually served to inspire those at home and fighting abroad and not simply to entertain**.

The decision to make Rogers part of a USO show in order to protect him, I find to be a more disturbing mishandling of the character and again highlights Johnson’s lack of understanding about Steve Roger’s primary appeal and focusing on all the wrong things. Similar to the perceived necessity of explaining the costume, I find the “protective-preservation ” plotline to be an inaccurate modern take on actual historical mood and events. Unlike current wars and conflicts, the pre-Super Soldier Serum Steve Rogers is a symbol of America’s unwavering devotion and (nearly) universal support of the extermination of evil. The spirit of the time from what we now call the Greatest Generation was of sacrifice and duty and not of reservation and hesitancy. If the United States designed a superior riffle, but was only able to make one, the US Army would not have paraded that superior riffle around to inspire the deployed troops or Americans on the home front. They would have put that riffle to work in the hands of their best marksman (that’s a better metaphor). It is easy to look back after the War has already been won and say that you would obviously want to protect the Super-Soldier because he’s the only one, but it is another thing to be on the other side of history, not knowing how the outcome of how the war will play out, but knowing that failure is not an option and then say we’d better keep this guy off the front lines for his protection.

Also, the idea of Captain America, the last and only Super-Soldier, being in a USO show at all is just not well thought out. First, the USO is a private, civilian organization, not part of the Armed Forces, so it seems a bit silly that the US Army would put its most valuable asset in the hands of non-military personal. Second, if Nazi intelligence can discover and infiltrate the site of Project: Rebirth’s primary test (possibly the most important and secretive research going on in the United States during the period preceding World War II) to kill the lead scientist and end the program, then they would probably have no problem securing the schedule and location of the USO’s shows to assassinate its singular success.

Finally, showing a Steve Rogers, someone who volunteered for a risky and dangerous treatment to do anything he could to help combat evil, in some meaningless protective USO parade at all is huge and unnecessarily breach in character. Captain America is not about hesitancy or reserve. Spider-man, Batman, and Iron Man, as products of a more modern time, all had to have significant trauma inflicted on them to push them to become superheroes. Steve Rogers volunteered for the Super-Soldier Project not because of some defining personal tragedy but because it was right. That he would be so deferential to actually be in the show in the first place and not on the front line wholly undermines his credibility to be seen as the symbolic paragon of the World War II American spirit. War is dangerous. There were ordinary men who risked and lost their lives to accomplish extraordinary things. To have the Super-Soldier willing to play it safe is an insult to their sacrifice and will unconsciously and possibly irrevocably color the character in the minds of the audience. The filmmakers are already going to have a difficult time building him up as the most inspired leader of the war without the (at least 30 minute) handicap/ setback this USO plotline creates***.

Johnson’s statement on the costume seems indicative that he is indeed focusing on all the wrong aspects of Captain America or not aware of the right ones. While the design of the costume is part of the character, it isn’t the defining one like Iron Man or Batman where the suit is the vehicle for the character’s accomplishments. The most important thing about Captain America is Steve Rogers himself. There is an issue of Spider-man in the 90’s spider-slayer arc where Peter Parker’s (fake) parents, Mary and Richard, are a taken aback by Spider-Man and contrast him to Captain America who they say was at least human****. This anecdote really centers in on the essence of Steve Rogers as being seen as one of and not above the American wartime populace. Spider-Man, Iron Man, and Batman are superheroes but I would not classify Captain America as such. The three former icons have abilities and tools that take them far beyond the ordinary and into the extraordinary. Because of their spectacular abilities, superheroes are intrinsically set apart from the people without them. “Ordinary” people applaud them, worship them to a degree, and can even fear and hate them (the whole Luther-Superman dynamic springs to mind) knowing that the superhero stands above them in a way. A hero on the other hand is of the people, not set apart and inspires others to be heroes in and of themselves. While Captain America has the Super Soldier serum that maximizes his human attributes, the difference between Super Soldier and superhero is a fine distinction, but it is this distinction that is the most important to the character.

In all the Marvel Universe, Steve Rogers is the only successful Super Soldier. Efforts to re-create the formula and the Super Soldier have created a myriad number of copies with an equal number of shortcomings and side effects. With so many efforts to duplicate him and no true successes, a theory has emerged, sort of flitting through the background of various Marvel titles, that it isn’t the serum that is special and unique to the success of the Super Soldier but that it is Steve Rogers and his will to be what is needed that just actually makes the Super Soldier serum effective in the first place. Abilities coming from within the individual rather than a suit designed from engineering brilliance, or genetic or scientific powers is what separates Captain America from the other comic book icons and is really at the heart of the character.

While that sounds similar to Batman, there is a fundamental difference between the two. Batman is a creature of fear and intimidation and Captain America is a symbol of hope and inspiration. This contrast is why Johnson’s take on the World War II backdrop of the film should be a realistic and natural one (in the vein of Band of Brothers over something like The Great Escape) but not for the same reason as Batman Begins. Nolan’s take on Batman is so determinedly grounded in reality (a reason why the sonar sequences never sat well with me in The Dark Knight) in order to take a man with the right training, discipline, well-funded armory, and the will to fight crime, and elevate him beyond the what normal people cannot or are unwilling to do; a superhero in the realistic world. Johnson’s take on Captain America should be similarly grounded in historical reality in order to demonstrate how a normal man can alter history and create heroes out of other people.

That is the beauty of Steve Roger’s as Captain America. He is a symbol of what we can be if we can find the inner strength to not shy away from what is needed and push ourselves beyond what we are capable of in the service of others—a mirror to inspire and reflect what already exists in ourselves. He reminds us of a time when there is sometimes evil without shades of grey, and that good must arise to combat it. He shows us that despite the ever-growing complexities of our current time, there is still right and wrong. Most importantly, Captain America inspires people to find heroism within themselves in the direst of circumstances or in the smallest ones; to be who we really are or even forgot that we could be. This film is about establishing him as the encapsulation of the greatest generation, and then literally bringing that heroism to our current and every subsequent generation. That is the film that Captain America should be and deserves. Unfortunately, from what I’ve seen of Johnson’s potential in Wolfman, I don’t think that it can be, but despite my doubts, I still hope it will be.

— Cory Line
2 March 2010

Oh yeah, and Bucky Barnes should be played by Joseph Gordon-Levitt (Sequel, baby). No question about it.

* My theories about why Rami didn’t have it for Spider-man 3 would probably necessitate a longer piece than this.

** A short exchange with some of the men teasing Cap about the flashy nature of his costume, and him replying that he asked for it to be that the enemy combatants would be drawn to him rather at the other men would be a more elegant, simple and character driven solution very similar to the reason Frank Miller gives in the ‘Dark Night Returns’ for Batman’s yellow chest insignia.

*** A best-case scenario would be that Steve realizes that boosting moral through non-direct means is not the best use of him being an honest-to-god super soldier (or Steve finally getting fed up with the Army’s efforts to protect him) and escapes to the front line, or he is attacked at a show by the Red Skull’s agents (I already explained how and why) and the Army decides they can’t protect him anywhere and is finally put on the front line to fight. As a best-case scenario, the very best way that this USO idea can possibly be resolved, it’s still not great, a complete backtrack on his character, and, at the very least, a complete waste of time.

**** Amazing Spider-Man 368